AK47 Triangle Stock Paracord Wrap

Plenty of guys out there who do amazing work with 550 cord/paracord; from slings, to belts, even dog collars, and everything else in between. I am not one of them, but I get by here and there when I want to accomplish something. In this case I just wanted to add some comfort to my triangle stock. 

First & foremost, clear your firearm before beginning any work. 

[Click on images to enlarge]

I started with 15 feet of paracord for my wrap, but use 20 feet to be on the safe side. It's better to have excess than to get to the end of your wrap and discover you're short. You will need a lighter/matches, a pair of pliers (optional), some tape (optional), and a knife/scissors. 

Start by lining up the paracord along the object you intend to wrap. The shorter end pictured above and in full view being the "free end" (bottom) while the excess paracord running off the side of the picture will be referred to as the "long, wrap end" (top) and the loop at the opposite end is the "loop end". Three parts: the free end, the wrap end and the loop end. Scroll down to the last image in this blog post and look at the cheat sheet diagram for a quick visual overview of the parts. 

For this demo, the wrap end will be above the free end, as pictured. You can also reverse the direction, opposite of what I have pictured, that's up to you. 

Though not necessary, taping the end loop will hold it in position while you do the wrap.

Take the longer wrap end and send it over the free end, wrapping it under and over the stock.

Bring the wrap end back under itself and loop it through as pictured above. You're basically creating a knot.

Pull it through and then back, behind the stock and now start your wrap.

Tighten each loop into place, evenly and firmly. No need to rush through it, take your time at this point.

Once you get to the end loop you'll send the wrap end through the loop. I got it really close, as pictured above, with just enough to sneak the wrap end through the small opening of the loop end.

With the wrap end through the loop end, pull the free end down and away from the wrap, which in turn pulls the loop end down and into the wrap. Using pliers makes this a lot easier to accomplish and gives you the leverage + grip you need. I only pull the loop end down about 4-5 lines, shifting them into place to accommodate the loop end. 

If you count 5 lines in from end, the loop end is tucked under there. Not flawless, but clean enough.

With the loop end in place under the wrap, take the excess long, wrap end and tie it off. Then cut away the extra paracord. 

Now melt it into place with your fire stick. 

Melted end. Hit it with a black Sharpie if you want to hide the white center. 

Once the loop end has been finished up, cut away the free end, and light it up to melt it into place.

It turned out well and is a lot more comfortable, which is especially noticeable on a cold morning or a hot summers day.

Pictured above is a paracord wrap on an ACE skeleton stock. Pictured on this LINK to ar15.com is another way to do the ACE or FAL stock, 5th post down. A lot of guys also wrap their UFs and their wirestocks or AMD crutch stocks as shown in this LINK.

Above is a cheat sheet diagram based off of a tutorial done by ar15.com member CXS, which is also shown in the links I posted above under the ACE stock wrap. 

Final notes. 550 paracord is readily available online or at your local milsurp store. It is available in many colors, allowing for unlimited options and wrap arrangements. Paracord is exceptionally durable and is a great multipurpose piece of gear to have in your kit. This versatile cord was even used by astronauts during the 82nd Space Shuttle mission to repair the Hubble Space Telescope.  - Wikipedia

If anyone has any suggestions on how to finish up the ends more efficiently, post in the comments section. If you have a link to another way to wrap a stock, please also post in the comments section. I'm always interested in trying something new or an alternate method.

Crossroads of the West - Costa Mesa

BLK RFL DIV is currently at the Crossroads of the West gun show in Costa Mesa from March 28-29. We are set up in the Anaheim Hall next to the Shooters Zoo crew.

If you plan to attend, please stop on by and you'll find some great deals. 

Final notes: And the exhibition hall has AC! This may not mean much to many still experience Old Man Winter's wrath, but in SoCal it's been blazing hot with summertime weather.

Banana Clip T-Shirt Restocked!

All larges and XLs in Cardinal and Charcoal of the Banana Clip t-shirt have been restocked. Here's the link to the store: Banana Clipazine or click on the BRD store link button on the right side of the page >

[Photo courtesy of dirty6882bird]

All domestic orders are also still getting free shipping. That was supposed to only last a month, but what the hell, let's keep it going. Thanks for all the support!

7.62x39mm Shootout

Note: I had originally attempted to document POA/POI at 100yds for the 7.62x39mm shootout, but was dealing with substantial variance between the different ammo types to where I could not photograph some of the groups for comparison. Therefore, I decided to pull my targets in closer and set them up at 50yds for this informal test.

[Click on images to enlarge]

The shoot was conducted on a sunny, spring day with a high of 75º F and a light crosswind, nothing that would affect the accuracy, especially at 50yds. Firearm used for this test was a Romanian DRACO, which has an 11.5" barrel, with a Bushnell TRS-25 red dot in the prone position off my rangebag. Firearm was cleaned prior to shoot and no cleaning was done during the shoot. Because of my limited time, I decided to run 5 shots per cartridge type and used 7" circular reactive targets placed at 50yds. The 5 shots were taken in succession usually all within 1min, then a 3-4min cooldown while I reloaded the mag for the next brand/target.

7.62x39mm ammo used: Red Army Standard, Red Army Elite, Wolf "Yellow Box",  Wolf Polyformance, Wolf Military Classic, Tula / Herter's, Silver Bear, Fiocchi, Golden Tiger, Prvi Partizan, Arsenal, Hornady SST, and some Yugo milsurp (not pictured above).

Zeroing

I set up my baseline zero with Wolf Polyformance 123gr FMJ. Why Wolf? I decided to use a common brand and cartridge, one that most AK owners would have readily available. The red dot was originally zeroed at 25yds and was ~2" high at 50yds, a few clicks brought down my elevation and I was GTG. 

[1] Red Army Copper Jacketed Elite 123gr FMJ

After zeroing, I loaded up a mag with 5 rounds of RA Elite. 1st shot went far left and the rest fell in to create an ugly first group... a very ugly first group.

[2] Yugo M67 123gr Ball (Headstamp NK 1970)

Very far left, no wonder I couldn't get this on paper at 100yds. 3"s over at 50yds will be a lot further off at 100yds. 1st cold bore shot was off paper under the horizontal centerline to the left.

[3] Wolf Polyformance 123gr FMJ

Wolf Poly, dropped a little from my original zero, my NPOA was obviously slightly off or maybe it was the color of my rangebag, got to blame something.

 [4] Tula 122gr FMJ (Herter's)

Unsure if that top left hole was the 1st cold bore shot or not as I did not confirm it. 

[5] Wolf Military Classic 124gr HP

Wolf Mil Classic, I'm liking what I see. 5 shots, decent group, no flyers, I'll take it.

 [6] Wolf "Yellow Box" 122gr HP

Wolf Yellow Box was terrible when I shot it at 100yds and it was all over the place at 50yds. 

[7] Arsenal 122gr FMJ

Cold bore shot was bottom left, then grouped nicely to the left. I reconfirmed my cold bore shot with the 6th shot, striking right above the bullseye, yet the variance in elevation on the cold bore left me somewhat perplexed. I moved on.

[8] Silver Bear 123gr FMJ

I think I could have done better here. My NPOA (natural point of aim) was slightly off, thus that horizontal string.

[9] Golden Tiger 124gr FMJBT

Golden Tiger, I'll take it, not a bad group.

[10] Prvi Partizan 123gr SP

Prvi soft points, again, wow, bottom wayyy left. 3 shots on paper, 2 shots off.

[11] Fiocchi 123gr FMJ

Fiocchi, not what I expected to see. I will repeat this one and reconfirm, because that is worse than Wolf Yellow Box... just all over the place.

[12] Hornady 123gr SST

1st "cold bore" shot is bottom right, then the rest of the shots grouped nicely in the center.

[13] Red Army Standard 123gr FMJ

Not much different from RA Elite. However, I believe the 5th round went off paper to the left, just above the center horizontal line, probably a flyer due to shooter error. I want to say all 5 shots were on paper though, 2 in the bottom left hole, but that far left hole off paper has me second guessing myself, so I'll call it 4 on paper and 1 wild flyer to the left.

Final notes. This was a fun and QUICK shootout to compare the variance in POA vs POI. That was actually a big con to this test though, as it was definitely quick & I didn't settle into some of my targets as well as I should have. I would love to see others run an informal test, so please post your results. Get a good bench rest while you are at it, too, that will help significantly.

Lastly, with all this different ammo being run I had no FTFs, no malfunctions, nada. Love my AKs.

Aervoe Rattle Can Paintjobs

I'm a big fan of Aervoe rattle can paint and have touched on it's use in a few of my past posts. I have used it on many components; from gas tubes, to barrels, to rails, to entire firearms.  Aervoe is not resistant to scratches and continual wear, it doesn't claim to be, but it is durable, it is very easy to use, inexpensive, and readily available (I get it from DSG Arms located in TX). Additionally, it dries... dry, none of that residual tackiness I've experienced with other rattle can paints. To put down an effective coat one just has to follow a few basic steps, key being prepping the items to be painted correctly and an awareness of outside temperatures.

I recently got some parts in for one of my latest mods that I wanted to rattle can, a perfect time to do a post about it. Pictured above, the castle nut & Ace Pignose Adapter needed a different look. But before I apply the Coyote Tan Aervoe, I need to get the parts prepped.

[1] Prep

You've got to degrease your parts, whether it's factory grease, cosmoline, or your greasy mitt prints, get that stuff off! If you already have a degreasing regiment, use it. For these parts, I used GUNK Non-Chlorinated Brake Cleaner. GUNK does leave residue and I use boiling hot water to wash it off, thus the gritty garage kettle pictured to the left. Additionally, you do not want to use this stuff in an enclosed area, outside is ideal. Denatured alcohol does a good job too, especially for polymer parts, where you do not want to use GUNK. However, I have used GUNK on polymer parts, even though the can does warn against usage on such parts. 

After degreasing and drying off the parts, tape off the areas you don't want to paint. Use gloves or avoid handling the prepped areas, don't undo the work you just did by getting them greasy again. Blue painter's tape works adequately. For the interior of receivers, I stuff them with paper towels and then mask off with painter's tape. 

The parts I'm working on are on hooks made from coat hangers, nothing special. From prep to painting to drying, the parts stayed on these hooks and I didn't remove them until they were completely dry and ready for installation.

[2] Application

Place the parts in the sun once you're ready to paint. Temperature is an important part of the curing process, it needs to be warm and right now in Southern California it has been in the 80s and low 90s, more than adequate. Put the rattle can in the sun as well before starting and get everything nice and warmed up as it really helps with the flow of paint & the curing process.

Be sure to shake the hell out of that Aervoe can, make sure the marble inside the can is moving freely. Test spray on some paper or something else, then apply to parts. 

Do not go heavy, get a light layer on and let it dry, then reapply. It's better to go slow than oversaturate and end up with drips & runs. I will usually hit a part 2-4 times in the first hour, leave it out in the sun "baking" all day, and then wait 24hrs before I touch it or before I reapply an additional coat. Whether it's a receiver or castle nut, my routine stays the same; apply Aervoe to the part lightly, layering the paint by hitting the part several times within the first hour, allow part to dry for the next 24hrs +, reapply paint, and allow to dry for an additional 24hrs+, allowing the part to get as much sun exposure or heat as possible.

[3] Result

After completely drying for 24hrs+, I will wipe down the part(s) with CLP lube to give it a nice lustre. This is by no means a requirement, simply something I do. As pictured, it matches up very well.

Final notes. It's inexpensive, it's durable if applied correctly, it has an excellent finish, you can do it yourself, and... it's inexpensive.  

The Photographs of Ed Drew

I stumbled upon an article about a helicopter gunner named Ed Drew who started taking pictures of his unit with Civil War era photographic technology, such as tintype photography, written by Tyler Wells Lynch in 2014. I had not seen it until now and thought I'd share.

LINK to the story and following are some of Ed Drew's enigmatic photographs. 

[Click on images to enlarge]

The Proposed M855/SS109 Ban

By now many in the firearms community are well aware of the proposed ATF ban on M855/SS109 5.56x45mm NATO (Green Tips). Three days ago the ATF announced the proposed ban on this common & commercially available cartridge, because of the Law Enforcement Officers Protection Act of 1986 (LEOPA), of which the primary goal is to protect police officers from death/injury from handgun ammunition capable of penetrating protective vests. As AR pistols have grown in popularity, the ATF has been given the justification they deem necessary to continue to rule against ammunition like the M855 cartridge. More recently, 5.45x39mm 7N6 was banned for importation per LEOPA. In the past, the infamous Olympic Arms OA-93 AR pistol was attributed as the catalyst for the 1994 importation ban of 7.62x39mm Chinese steel core when the firearm was simply exhibited at SHOT Show in early 1994, yet AK47 pistols were already being constructed & sold by Mars Imports* TGZ.

However, let's get right to the point, M855 is currently not classified as AP ammo by the ATF, because they, the ATF, originally determined that it was not AP ammunition based on the metals used in the bullet/projectile. In fact, the ATF has specifically stated that the M855/SS109 bullets are exempt from AP status!

Following is an excellent write up on M855/SS109 from It's Tactical back in 2011: LINK

Key notes from the It's Tactical article:

"In order to be classified as an AP round, the projectile must have a core made entirely out of the following metals per the Federal Government's definition of AP ammunition in 18 USC sec. 921(a)(17):

(B) The term “armor piercing ammunition” means-

(i) a projectile or projectile core which may be used in a handgun and which is constructed entirely (excluding the presence of traces of other substances) from one or a combination of tungsten alloys, steel, iron, brass, bronze, beryllium copper, or depleted uranium; or

(ii) a full jacketed projectile larger than .22 caliber designed and intended for use in a handgun and whose jacket has a weight of more than 25 percent of the total weight of the projectile.

Or the cartridge must have a full jacketed bullet with a jacket weighing more than 25% of its overall weight.

This means that the M855/SS109 bullets wouldn’t be covered, as their cores are partly steel, and partly lead. Lead isn’t listed in the metals above." - It's Tactical

In summary, M855/SS109 does not meet the AP ammunition classification based on the language in section (i) because of the metals used within the bullet. 

Another point of exemption under LEOPA is ammunition that is primarily intended to be used for sporting purposes. "The ATF has consistently interpreted sporting purposes to include the traditional sports of hunting, competitive target shooting, and skeet and trap shooting." Additionally, the Army has been phasing out M855 and replacing it with M855A1 (then there's the controversy that surrounds that cartridge!) so it has been widely available to the civilian market for years without issue. It could also be argued that it is now primarily used for competitive shooting, target shooting, or sporting purposes, but that determination is left to the Attorney General to make and that decision was made back in 1986. Yet, this is the basis of the ATF's current argument, that because AR pistols were not prevalent in 1986, but are now as common as M855, the ammunition used should be reevaluated and possibly reclassified and controlled. The ATF's stance is that they are following their guidelines in order to remain consistent with past rulings on ammunition, specifically 7N6 and 7.62x39mm (which are very questionable to say the least), yet they completely ignore the construction materials outline in section (i)!

M855/SS109, as with 7N6, was never designed or intended to be fired from a handgun/AR pistol. This is key as the language of LEOPA stipulates handgun ammunition capable of penetrating protective vests, but, unfortunately, does not have any bearing on the decision making within the ATF. In 1980 the US military decided to adopt the Belgian SS109 cartridge, which was developed in the 1970s for the FN FNC rifle and the FN Minimi MG. The SS109 cartridge was redesignated the M855 cartridge and was first used in the M16A2 rifle.

"To increase the range of the (FN) Minimi, the round was created to penetrate 3.5 mm of steel at 600 meters. The SS109 had a steel tip and lead rear and was not required to penetrate body armor. The 62-grain round was heavier than the previous 55-grain M193. While the M855 had better armor penetrating ability, it is less likely to fragment after hitting a soft target." - Wikipedia

So what's really going on if M855/SS109 doesn't meet the classification of an AP round, was once & still is designated under sporting purposes, was never designed for handgun use, and the fact AR pistols are simply being used as the launching point to further the ATFs agenda, simply put, scapegoated?

Per the Snipers Hide post on the ATFs recent announcement: LINK

"This very well can speak to velocity, so anything with enough velocity to defeat soft body armor can be at risk if this is allowed to move forward. It has a lot of bearing when it comes to precision rifle shooters, so please do your part to defeat this."

"This" is the language of LEOPA, which, to reiterate, is to protect officers from ammunition used in pistols that can defeat and penetrate protective vests. Yet, almost every popular or common rifle caliber is now available in a pistol/AR pistol and many have the potential to defeat a protective vest. Therefore, knowing that M855/SS109 does not meet the Federal classifications for AP ammo, that it is actually not an AP round, and is in fact "exempted" by the very organization that is now seeking to ban it, we can conclude this is not simply a matter of AP ammo being used in pistols and penetrating vests, it is a grab at common use ammo.  If M855 goes down, no commercially available rifle ammunition will be safe. 

On a side note, how many rounds of commercially available M855 does it take to penetrate AR500 steel body armor? The nutters at Demolition Ranch had to fire close to 90 rounds at one plate to defeat it. Granted, most LEO are not wearing steel plates and LEOPA discusses "soft" body armor, but the video does reinforce the fact M855 is not an efficient armor penetrator.



Final notes. If you have a moment, make your voice heard, and tell the government that it's not acceptable to ban this "common use" ammunition. As of tonite, 23:45hrs February 16 2015, there are 22,557 signatures and we need 100,000 total.

SIGN THE WHITE HOUSE PETITION

You will have to put in some personal information and respond to an email confirmation to the email account you enter to make it count. Please share on all forums you frequent, your FB page, anywhere & everywhere.