The IZHMASH 300 BLK AR15

I've had this project on my mind for a very long time, but finally decided it needed to become a reality instead of just being a jotted down note on the long, long "to-do" list. The first thing I did was acquire as much of the imagery needed, whether by taking photos of the receiver on my SGL31 or by searching the web. Ultimately, all images needed to be converted to vector format (AI / EPS), easily accomplished once I had compiled the right images. One of my initial struggles was finding a decent icon for "safe", because as we all know, finger is safety in Mother Russia. I settled on a generic "0" as most Russian firearms do not have a safety icon. Later I found out via responses on TFB (thefirearmblog.com) that "ПР" or "П" derived from Передохранитель would have been more appropriate and that the AK-12 & the AEK-971 both use ПР for "safe" on the selector markings.

After completing the design work and sizing, off to the laser engraver the 80% went along with the digital file. $130 and two days later, bam, the IZHMASH paperweight was born.  Not a lower or firearm yet though.

[Click on images to enlarge]

Immediately after getting the 80% back I hatched my evil plan to make this an AR pistol chambered in .300 AAC Blackout / 300 BLK / 7.62×35mm which merges the 7.62×39mm Soviet cartridge with the AR15 platform. Additionally, this is basically one of the only remaining ways to get an AR15 pistol in CA now; to make it yourself. Due to CA's idiotic laws, it must also be built from the ground up as a single shot, whether by a manufacturer or by an individual.

With the 80% engraved and the limitless options of AR15 Lego components floating around in my head, I hunkered down and began my quest for parts. As Ghandi said, "Let the destruction of my daughter's college savings fund begin!" First up, finding a good barrel, which wasn't too difficult with all the great options now available. I was fortunate enough to scoop up a 10" barrel from Ballistic Advantage (BAMF), a fine specimen made from 4150 chrome moly vanadium with a QPQ corrosion resistant finish, more commonly known as melonite.

More parts arrived: a BCM blemish upper, a SilencerCo ASR FH, an ALG QMS FCG, a Tango Down grip, a Magpul trigger guard, a Spikes pistol length gas tube, and a low end adjustable gas block, which I eventually sent back as I did not like the location of the set screw.

However, at this point I also decided to get the 80% anodized. If I had completed the 80% and then attempted to get it anodized, I would have had to find an anodizer with an FFL, not an easy quest. And, no, most anodizes who wish to stay in business will not do it while you wait. My understanding is the ATF has been shutting down places that had this policy, at least in San Diego County.

With the anodized 80% back in my hands, it was time to mill this sucka out and turn this inanimate object into a real life, fire breathing, ghost gunning, 30 rnds in half a second, FIREARM! And after a few hours of work, that's exactly what it became.

As mentioned previously, I returned the original adjustable gas block I had ordered and exchanged it for the Seekins adjustable gas block (.750 DIA). Besides the superior machining of the Seekins, the set screw is located on the front or muzzle facing side of the gas block, making it far more accessible for constricting or releasing more gas. Many other options require the removal of the handguard, not desirable from my point of view, so be aware of the location of the set screw and the regulator screw when making your decision.

A test fit on the barrel with the Seekins gas block revealed that part of the Geissele 9.5" MK4 rail would need to be removed in order to access the regulator screw with ease.

After 5 minutes with the Dremel and some cleanup work with a file, it was GTG.

With that completed, I was ready to paint. I was feeling an OD green with a black combo after riding in a Sherman tank a few weeks earlier, so it was time to degrease the parts.

Aervoe rattle can is my go-to paint. Once parts are dry and degreased, I hit them with a light coat. They then cure for 48hrs, hit them again, then allow to cure for another 48hrs. Here is a write up on Aervoe from a previous blog post: blkrfldiv.blogspot.com/2015/03/aervoe-rattle-can-paintjobs

With all the parts dry, everything starts to come together.

Final notes. Test firing was uneventful, a good thing. I started with the regulator screw closed in most of the way, fired one shot, it failed to extract, bolt didn't have enough force to lock back or even clear the mag. Next step, open up the regulator a little more, fired the next round, spent case extracted at 4 o'clock and the bolt locked back. Done.

FYI the serial number below the arsenal mark on the magwell has been Photoshopped out of all these photos. A serial number is not necessary, in fact no markings are necessary on a firearm built by a law abiding American, as "Federal law does not require a homemade gun to have identifying marks (such as a serial number), as long as it remains in the possession of the original maker. The ATF suggests that all homemade firearms be marked with a serial number (or distinguishing marks) as a safeguard in the event the firearm is lost or stolen, but requires it if the gun is otherwise lawfully transferred in the future." - criminaldefenselawyer.com

It is your right to build firearms, so get started building! But... also know the laws, especially in a place like Californiastan. Ask questions or google search your questions, better to ask a "dumb" question than be arrested for some asinine BS. Happy building, folks.